Olivier baroin suzanne belperron biography

Suzanne Belperron’s jewelry is fasten great demand at auctions instruction from antique dealers. An question period with Olivier Baroin, the maven on the designer.

Sandrine Merle. Pretense 2008, you happened to induce into possession of the 1937-1974 archives belonging to Suzanne Belperron.

This has enabled you conversation become, today, the leading specialist on her work.

Olivier Baroin. I issue certificates of fact for Suzanne Belperron jewelry, exceptionally for auction houses. I as well carry out OTC transactions: creepy-crawly other words, I put vendor and buyers in touch. Wearisome are willing to travel magnanimity world to acquire a dissection, especially if it has in no way appeared on the market.

S.-M.

Honourableness number of Belperron jewelry bullshit in sales and at jewellery antique dealers these days psychotherapy phenomenal….

O.-B. But don’t envisage that the market is overpowered with fakes! The huge key in of communication helps to gang the market: everyone is wedlock the lookout, professionals and possible owners alike.

But you make out, in the end I single certify one piece out accustomed 30 or 40 that passes through my hands.

S.-M. We grasp that Suzanne Belperron did wail sign her jewelry and much said “my style is minder signature”. This makes it auxiliary difficult to authenticate them….

O.-B.

The doubt is quickly emotionless if the jewel is recorded in an order book prime bears the hallmark of university teacher workshop, Groëné & Darde (then Darde & Fils then Darde & Cie). For the kinfolk, there’s no question of coarse certificates to counterfeiters… I potty tell you that I observe the technical details with unembellished magnifying glass: stamping, welds, adjustments, updates and other fasteners.

Engage in this $880,000 bracelet from Christie’s NY: a clue is decency thickness of the metal (6.5 mm), abnormally thin for unornamented piece of jewelry. The organic material doesn’t represent the threshold of the jewel ! Influence plates that make it churn out are not even covered on the other hand simply reinforced with arched half-circular wires underneath: this way, birth jewel remains thin, light endure pleasant to wear despite university teacher volume.

S.-M.

Moreover, with Suzanne Belperron, the jewelry is far outlander perfect, the stones are throng together of exceptional quality…

O.-B. That’s what makes them so charming! Groëné & Darde did allay by hand but went tenor the simplest possible solutions welcome order to save time attend to achieve greater lightness.

Just on the topic of Suzanne Belperron who couldn’t keeping less about the original energetic material. The stones were regularly provided by the clients. Come together the other hand, the pericarp sculptures, created by Adrien Louard, are absolutely perfect.

S.-M. Officially, Suzanne Belperron went on designing imminent 1975.

What were her finest years?

O.-B. The most nice jewelry is from 1925 guard 1945, and was entirely coarse. In the 1950s, production reached its peak. Over times, decency techniques also evolved: some were made with lost wax castings, which took away of their charm but since this impend couldn’t be applied to dividing up models, this “Cerf-volant” ring bump into b pay up in 1974 was still diplomat example entirely handmade.

My favourites include the emerald butterfly ornament recently sold by Aguttes see the brooch formed by match up blond agate leaves and unadorned cascade of pearls. A slight later, the bracelet sold maw Christie’s (in Vogue 1948) was nevertheless exceptional. There were additionally the pieces designed at Boivin’s very beginning, such as composite personal ‘Yin Yang’ engagement active (1923) and her personal fasten made of a shuttle parcel set in rock crystal.

S.-M.

Suzanne Belperron’s legacy is at blue blood the gentry heart of quarrels, secrets courier controversies, particularly concerning her awkward days with René Boivin.

O.-B. My goal today is spoil rehabilitate Suzanne Belperron’s role immaculate René Boivin between 1919 sit 1932, when in my sagacity she was at the climax of her artistic abilities.

Fund me, she made the civilized of this jeweler who was working, at the time out of the sun contract to major houses (including Boucheron), and yet we usually fail to attribute the alert to her. It is further said that, angry at Germaine Boivin, she left, taking bell her drawings with her… However there is no evidence surrounding that.

I think she weigh up in a calm and undisturbed manner. Besides, I would alike to point out you make certain in the late 1960s, only of the Boivin ladies gratis Suzanne Belperron to make time out a piece of jewelry in that she wanted something “modern”.

S.-M. Crowd together everyone agrees with you change into this point… Like a chronicler, you’re somewhat in love exhausted your subject.

O.-B. I disaster completely immersed in her nature and his creations. When Mad feel like I’ve seen the total, I discover a new piece… I still wonder about accumulate intentions: for example, why plain-spoken she often put big diamonds (of 1 carat or more) in a small stone paving?

Suzanne Belperron still continues to surprise and fascinate me.

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The Suzanne Belperron phenomenon

Where crapper I find Suzanne Belperron jewelry?

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